Since Embroidery designs come in 7 formats and usually multiple sizes they are all saved in a zipfolder for easy uploading and downloading

I’m going to go with NO. You can if you like but if you a Babylock person you don’t need to keep the format for the Singer machines. AND if you ever do decide to switch machines you can always come back and re-download the format you need.

Embroidery designs can’t be resized. They are digitized for the size they are. If you need to adjust it 10% or so, okay you can probably get away with that. BUT to go from a 5×7 to a 4×4 is NO-NO! It’s not going to stitch right and I only stand behind the designs when they are stitched at the size they are saved in. From time to time I do accept custom requests for resizing. Since the designs have to be redigitized they aren’t free. Usually they are $12 but can vary depending on what they are. Some designs can’t be resized. 

I see this rather often with machines that only take a 4×4 hoop. 99% of the time it is due to the design being too large for your hoop. A 4×4 hoop actually is 3.94×3.94 and has an even smaller embroidery field. I always try to make my 4x4s small enough to fit but on occasion one will slip through. It’s an easy fix, just email me!

Short answer is that it is different for EACH design. HOWEVER a 5×7 design and a 7×5 design are the same and will ALWAYS be listed as a 5×7 on my site! This goes for 6×10 also. The difference is the orientation and this makes a BIG difference. Portrait vs. Landscape. Portrait designs are taller than they are wide. Landscape designs are wider than they are tall. My designs are always made to fill AS MUCH of the hoop as possible. I always include info pictures that tell you finished size, stitch count and shows you orientation. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE look at the pictures! There will NEVER be a portrait design running up and down in a landscape hoop! I hope that makes sense. 

Good Question! Each design is different and each format is different as well. There will be an INFO picture in the listing that shows stitch count, it is an average, your format may have more but it will be similar. The picture also has finished sizes and stitch order.

This my friend is an applique design! The BLUE is placement and HOT PINK is tack down. I always try to keep these at the beginning of the design when possible. 

Do you have to stitch them in blue & pink? Absolutely not! In fact I use the same color for all of them but need the different colors to tell your machine when to stop. 

What if I don’t want to use fabric? No problem! You can absolutely skip those steps. I digitize all of my designs to not have overlapping pieces that you would see if you left out the fabric.  

Absolutely! I understand that you can’t possibly make sample shirts for EVERY design. You are welcome to use my sample pictures. You MUST leave my watermark and logos intact and visible. 

The most common cause is stabilizer. My designs are very dense and require good stabilizer to support all the stitches. Here are some tips for you!

**If you wear it don’t tear it. Don’t use tearaway stabilizer on items that will be laundered often such as shirts. Tearaway isn’t sturdy enough to hold up the stitches. Cutaway is BEST!

**Hoop don’t float. I know it’s a pain to hoop, I really do get it BUT it will give you the best results.

**Make sure your hoop is tight. If your shirt is loose then the stitching will pull and you will get puckers and your design might not line up properly.

** You can float an extra piece of stabilizer when you are working on an extra dense design. This really helps!

**Slow your machine down! Just because you can stitch at 1000 doesn’t mean you have to.

**Black thread is almost ALWAYS thinner than other colors. I don’t know why this is but every brand I have tried has been this way.